Caves and Mountains - Day 4

Is it only Day 4? I feel like I’ve been doing this for 2 weeks already.

Wow, was I tired. I think I got 10 hours of quality sleep. The air mattress was superior to the cheap motel beds I had been in the previous two nights. And the rest was important because of all that I did today including nearly a third of a marathon of hiking.

I woke to an overcast dreary day, and was not at all disappointed because I was going underground for the day. Brantley Lake left me just 40 minutes from Carlsbad Caverns National Park and I was in the Visitor’s Center by 9:30 AM. The Visitors Center sits on top of a small mountain and overlooks an enormous expanse of lowlands. Millennia ago this expanse had been an ocean, and the Visitors Center sits on what was once the landfall of the ocean, the beachs. And below the Visitor Center, the Caverns, were once the coral reef on the oceans edge. When the ocean receded into the desert, the reef slowly became the amazing caverns.
I chose to do the two hikes that came free with the National Parks Pass I had bought for $80 at Saguaro NP.

The first hike was called the Natural Entrance hike, because we were entering through the same entrance that was first discovered in 1903. The 1.2 mile long hike would take my down 750 feet (75 stories) into the caves.

Very shortly after the entrance, I crossed what they call the “twilight zone” and I would last see natural light again for 3 hours. I was spelunking in what is considered by most to be the most beautiful caves in the world. I was immediately immersed in stalactites, stalagmites, columns, popcorn, water pools, draperies and a bunch of other cave features I can’t remember. It was jaw dropping.

The audio tour that I purchased talked of how most visitors walk around with a dumb-struck look on their face, and it was certainly true for me. Going down into the caves, every other step brought about something new and spectacular. And each new cave I entered seemed more unbelievably spectacular than the previous. Not cool or beautiful or even amazing, but none were less than spectacular.

I took a ton of pictures, but half the pictures didn’t come out because the caves were so big and dark that the flash was ineffective. Only some of the close-ups came out ok, but not nearly as good as they might have. This is a place that must be visited in person, and any description I could give won’t compare to the experience.

After the 75 story hike down, I was at the entrance to the Big Room, the second hike on my tour. This Big Room isn’t the biggest cave room in the world, it’s in Borneo, but this may be 3rd. I did another mile+ hike around just a portion of the Big Room. Unless I heard or remember wrong, the size of just this one cave was like 700 football fields. Not a single second in this “room” was anything but awesome. I spoke in hushed whispers with my fellow spelunkers in terms of stunned reverence, and even though I am an atheist, I was quite often using the word God.

The hike ended at the elevators, and I was whisked up the 750 feet to the surface. Nearly 3 miles of hiking and with every turn of the head I was seeing something different. In my ranking of best National Parks, this definitely makes the top 5. It’s not better than Yellowstone or Bryce, but it is certainly in the top 5.

I thought of hanging around til 6PM to see the exodous of more than 100,000 bats through the Natural Entrance as they set out for their nightly insect slaughter. But with the early start, I figured I could get on my way and perhaps have another scenic drive on my way to Big Bend Texas.

Here’s something I didn’t know before yesterday. Just 30 miles south of Carlsbad Caverns NP, and just over the Texas border, there is another National Park. Has anyone heard of Guadalupe Mountains NP? Neither had I.

I was told of it by the Ranger at Brantley Lake, and only briefly read up on it before nightfall. I saw there was an hour long scenic drive, and that was the plan that the Ranger and Guadalupe Mtns NP talked me out of. Cute as a button she was, when she told me, “The only real way to see the Park is to get out of your car and hike. And the best hike you can do in a half day is the McKittrick Canyon hike.” So under an overcast sky, I found myself at the start of a 5 mile (2.5 out, 2.5 back) hike to Pratt’s Lodge.

I might have been jaded by the spectacle of Carlsbad Caverns, or perhaps it was the lack of sunshine, it may have been the rain that started falling during the return trip, but this hike just didn’t do it for me. Sure it was beautiful, and had all the scenery, flora and fauna (see the deer photo) that I could hope for, but it wasn’t up to par with other hikes of this length I’ve done at National Parks. I think part of the problem was that it was a somewhat strenuous hike done over mostly rocky terrain that had me staring at my footing instead of taking in the scenery. I should have done the shorter scenic drive. My body would ache less right now.

I’m holed up in Van Horn, TX in another cheap hotel, and I expect to get another 10 hours of sleep tonight. I plan just a leisurely drive to Big Bend tomorrow. I will probably be driving a scenic route that I blogged about on the first Road Trip, so no need to discuss it again. It’ll be a day off, but hopefully not a rain out. Depending on the weather I may be camping out before exploring the park on Monday.

When the Embers Go Cold - Day 3

Out by 8, or was it 9AM, my first stop of the day was Wal Mart. I needed a case of water, and a fold-up canvas sitting chair. If things went right, I would be camping by nights end. And things went well.

The next stop was the White Sands National Monument, after a picturesque two hour drive. I had gone to the Sand Dunes NP in Colorado on the first trip, and this proved to be the junior version of that spectacle. There were no dunes that were too difficult for a fit person to ascend, but the beauty of the rippled sand and it’s uniqueness, made it no less worth a visit.

It sits in the middle of a missile bombing range and sometimes they have to close it so the government can take some big gun practice shooting. It’s not far from alien sighting Roswell. An atom bomb had been tested near by. I’m all aglow.

From there, I decided I was too close not to go to Roswell, and hope to find a tourist trap with an extremely cheesy T-shirt with a green head and some pithy yet cryptic words. Alas, it was not to be. I was half way to Roswell when I saw a sign for Apache Frybread. That is a “must pull over” signal to my tastebuds. Before I could get off the road, I was caught up to and moved to the side of the road by a copper. He swerved to continue past me to whatever stupid emergency he was so pushy about.

So I continued on to the frybread. I’ve written about it before. It’s fantastic and like a flat bread version of funnel cake. This was the real deal stuff as I was on an Apache reservation. The dozen cars in the parking lot in such a desolate area was additional proof that it would be great, and it was.

I got mine to go, headed back on the road to Roswell, and a few miles later ran into a lane of parked cars. People were walking forward, figuring out what was going on and word was passed back that a bus had flipped over. Multiple ambulances had passed (while I was getting frybread). And there were bodies in the road. I believed them, so I made a U-turn and forged a new route through the Apache Reservation land that made me miss Roswell all together.

Because of the detour I ended up at Brantley Lake NM State Park where I selected the “Primitive” camping location meant for those without an RV. The site I ended up at didn’t provide a thing besides a flat like tent area and a bunch of rocks in a circle for a fire pit. They didn’t sell fire wood, so I had to gather what I could from the nearby trees.

I sat a couple of feet from the lake’s edge, ate my Subway hoagie, and watched a superb sunset over the lake and distant mountains. The streaky cloud cover greatly improved the susnset, but unfortunately covered up most of the starry night I had hoped to enjoy. It being a day shy of the harvest full moon, didn’t help either. I was exhausted and on my blowup bed by 9PM.

It’s time to go to bed when you’ve run out of firewood, and even the embers have gone cold.

Erasing Arizona - Day 2

By noon, I was out. Three hours across the desert on the I10, and I am now a former Phonecian and former Zoner. New Mexico couldn't come fast enough.

(Actually, New Mexico did come faster. I was once again tripped up by the crossing of a time line. I had most of what I wanted to do time out pretty well so that I could complete dinner and be back in my hotel room with plenty of time to get comfortable for Survivor. By the time I turned on the TV, they were already voting for the evictee. Damn time zone lines!!)

Shortly after entering New Mexico, I left the interstate and headed for Silver City, and the start of a scenic drive that had me criss-crossing the continental divide. I passed a town called Pinos Altos, or "tall pines" for you gringos, and that is exactly what appeared as I entered the Gila National Forest.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised that I really had a great day. I am on vacation (or is it retirement or unemployment) and doing whatever I want, so it should be great. But once on the scenic drive, all stresses evaporate, and the beauty of the scenery takes over.

The road narrowed, and the center line disappeared, as the drive ran up, down and along the crest of small 6,500 foot elevation mountains. Tons of hair pin turns, striking panoramas, and ever changing flora; I even had a little skid producing run in with a deer that was eyeballing me like he wanted to make a suicidal run across the road. It was GREAT to get out of the desert.

Two hours deep in the middle of the journey, I came to the main attraction. The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. There, a mile long loop trail led me past ancient "condos" built into a cave about half way up a cliff. Why people intelligent enough to build these "rooms" would choose to build them half way up a cliff is beyond me. Apparently they figured out there was easier living elsewhere, because they only lasted on generation before checking out. However, I give them some credit for picking a room with a view.

Though just a mile, the steepness of the hike taught me that my Snack Master legs need to be retrained to hiking again. There were also a few ledges along the way that kicked in my fear of heights adrenaline...an added bonus.

Back across the mountains, and down past a few scenic lakes, and finally into Dening, NM. Dening is like many of the towns and cities I passed through today. The best days are behind this town, and it seems like more than half the businesses are closed down, and it appears many were abandoned. Windows are boarded, and there isn't even a "For Rent" sign to be seen. Sad.

Tomorrow if all goes well, I will be camping out (thus no blog) not far from Carlsbad Caverns National Park with the goal of seeing as much as I can of the park on Saturday. This will be the first National Park I've visited that has elevators.

I'm Road Tripping Again!!! - Day 1 (Trip 2)

By noon I had the South Mountains of Phoenix in the rear view mirror, and I am once again Road Tripping. I only made it as far as Tuscon, AZ, but I did get to a National Park and eat at a Road Food recommendation. So while I am still working out the kinks of being on the road again, I had a pretty successful first day.

About an hour and a half outside of Phoenix, I took the turn off for Saguaro National Park (NP). And 30 minutes later I was a the visitor for the western portion of the park. I don't know why I have never been here before. It would have been a simple day trip or camping weekend.

This desert park is not much different from the Phoenix surroundings. Lots of cacti, including the namesake Saguaro (pronounced Swarro). The saguaro is the cactus most people think of when they think of cacti. The cactus grows straight up for 75 years before it ever starts growing the arms that make it iconic. They live to be about 200 years, before rotting out.

With such a late start, I took the scenic drive, and did a short hike to see some 800 year old petroglyphs. It's great to be back in a place that is so removed from civilization that you can hear nothing but nature. All and all, Saguaro NP was pretty cool, but I wouldn't go planning a vacation around it...go to the Grand Canyon instead.

I followed that up with a stop for dinner a Pico De Gallo taqueria in South Tuscon. Signs indicate they make the best pico de gallo in America. I didn't really know what p d g was, but in their version there were huge chunks of watermelon, papaya, pineapple coconut and jicama sprinkled generously with a unique chilly powder. Loved the first 3, but I could have done without the coconut and I disliked the jicama. I followed that with two carne asada tacos, and the star was the homemade corn tortillas.

So that's it. Day 1 is in the books and I am excited about travelling for another long vacation.

I Think It's Tomorrow

Both of these statements are true: So much to do, so little time. So little to do, so much time.

I am really hoping that sometime tomorrow morning I will be finished with storing my stuff and be out roadtripping. But there is still a handful of tasks, mostly manual labor, that may take a few hours, and not give me enough time to hit the road. However, there are not so many things to do, that if I get an early start, I can make it. Just a lot to accomplish, and I need to get it done.

The opposite is also true. I'm not exactly in a rush. It'd be fun to speed out tomorrow, but there is no pressing deadline. Whenever I am done with the storage, I will have nothing on the schedule. Nothing. Well, I suppose SixPack is getting married in May. (Congrats Jack!) But I can't really think of another mandatory scheduling requirement before then. I've got time.

And space. I probably will transverse the country a couple times in the next couple of months. Pre is primed, though still could use a complete cleaning. I still have all the accoutrement's from the last trip, so I am well equipped. I bought the latest edition of the Road Food book (200 new entries...in NJ, they are up to 10 entries and only 8 of them are hot dog stands).

After posting this, I will be disconnecting my computer to move to storage. One of the handful of tasks. I have to disconnect the TV and Tivo (how do I love thee Tivo!) Do some final vacuuming and cleaning. Connect with the Treasons one last time to pass off my unfinished jars of mayo, pickles, soy sauce and a half a box of otter pops. Put the last items into storage. Pack Pre with the pile of roadtripping materials. Lock the door. And go.

Oh, and plan a route. Since I don't have any real plans for the first couple of days, I'll let you know what I decided after I've done it.

This should be fun!

RT