Monday, April 30, 2007

Walking Slow in Phoenix - Days 22-23

I have not heard the terms amble and mosey since I have been here in Phoenix, but that is how people walk here. It is not because it's the "in" style of walking, but because the temperatures demand it. At 100+ degrees and still in April, if you aren't poky in your movement outdoors, it can drain you. Even the Treason's dog Scully knows this and while occasionally bursts with energy, for the most part she ambles, or moseys.

Life moves a bit slower here, and that is a good thing. It gives you a lot more time to look around and appreciate. And there is a lot to appreciate. The Treason's house sits with it's front door open to the peaks in the distance across uninhabited desert. It starts the morning beautifully, and it continues all the way to through sundown. And then there are the stars; stars that are ever there, but remain unseen around the big cities of the east.

For the last two days, I have been sedentary. I'm being educated in the sounds of the neighborhood pets. The dogs in the neighborhood all head to the back yards to bark goodnight for a half hour or so each night as the sun goes down. The many horses whinney intermittently for no apparent reason, perhaps they're just sneezing. And I laugh with Treason Pal at the neighbors braying ass, Dewydoff. "HeeHaw!" It really sounds like that, and it is hard not to reply back.

The Treason's went back to work today which allowed me to catch up on some of the chores that are limited on the road. I caught up on my three weeks of accumulated laundry, took a stroll through the local bookstore, and reorganized and weeded out the unneeded items that have traveled here unnecessarily from New Jersey. Then Treason Pal bailed out of her job for the afternoon. Hey, her boss played hooky all day anyway (Hi Paul, when are we golfing?). So we sipped down some Margaritas and watched the sun sink below the horizon, as we waited for Mr. Treason to finish up his day and join us.

In other words, it was "another stupid sunny day in Arizona". You bet.

Sunday, April 29, 2007

Personal Day - Day 21

Following the running-out-of-gas fiasco, I decided it was high time to get to the Treason's in Phoenix, AZ. I awoke at 5:30 AM and set out on the direct route. It wasn't until at the Arizona tourist information center just over the border that I learned that I had in fact crossed another time zone in NM, and I had really left at 4:30 AM. I arrived at the Treason's at high noon, decked out in my official AZ wear that I picked up at a cheesy tourist shop along the way. I don't know who was happier that I was there, Treason Pal or me.

A little background on the Treason's: Mr. Treason and I were the best of friends in high school. We played soccer for the Bulldogs, and Treason Pal was our team manager. While Mr. Treason went off to defend our country in the Marines, Treason Pal and I attended colleges in Philadelphia, and also became the best of friends. When Mr. Treason returned from his duty, Treason Pal snatched him up and they eloped to Tennessee. For years, or a decade and a half, their couch became my home-away-from-home when I visited my parents in South Jersey. A little more than a year ago, they made good on their threat to move, and they threw all their stuff in a truck and became Phoenixians (Phoenixites? I'll have to ask.) Prominently among the numerous reasons I decided undertake this trip was both the pride and the envy I felt about their move.

For the last seven days, I had not seen a face of anyone I knew. Can any of you think of a time where you went seven days without either seeing at least one person you know or as in my case, not even meeting anyone that I saw a second time.

So it was long past when I was welcomed here to Casa Treason (I'll describe more about their fantastic home and property in a later post). I was welcomed with home-made Reubens and homemade lasagna for lunch and dinner...Treason Pal isn't a master chef, but the things she does cook, she makes extraordinarily well. They also welcomed me with a room, a bed, a stocked refrigerator, a stocked liquor cabinet, my own bathroom and towels, a basket full of toiletries, a slobbering dog, a place to do laundry, a place to unload, a place to unwind, a place to be me: a Home! We settled in to talking about the days long past, the last year, the last 3 weeks; and the days, weeks and years to come. And we got drunk.

I'm not sure how often I will be updating this blog while I am here, probably not every day, but as often as I can. Fortunately, the Treason's share my love of beautiful scenery, fine food, and road tripping. And there is a lot to see here.

Slobbering Scully Treason and me:


Week 3 Ends

End of Week 3. (12:30AM, GMT - 4/29/07)


Friday, April 27, 2007

I Need a Rest, I'm Running Out of Gas - Day 20

From Van Horn, TX, I slept in a bit, and then set out with an ambitious potential plan.

First I would have a bite to eat in El Paso, then turn left at Las Cruces, NM. From there I would follow Rte 10 until the edge of the state, where I'd pick up another scenic drive with a likelihood of spending the night in Tombstone, AZ.

I am staying in Las Cruces tonight.

I had the great lunch in El Paso at a Mexican dive joint called the H & H Carwash and Cafe. At the end of some lovingly prepared huevos rancheros, the cashiere asked, "Just the food or did you have the car wash too?"

I made the left turn at Las Cruces, too. But, shortly after the turn, the car verbally told me to add fuel. It's a long way between some Texas gas stations. Let's just say the correct decision, that would have had me sleeping in Tombstone, was to do the near unthinkable, and go back.

I ended up at Mile Marker 90 on Route 10 West, just 7 miles short of Deming and more gas. Because of warning lights that wouldn't go off after the tow guy added gas, he dropped me off back here in Las Cruces, a 60 mile go back to the nearest Toyota dealership. They did a diagnosis, turned off the warning lights, and sent me on my way. The lost hours derailed the rest of the day.

Lessons learned:

1. Always fill the tank up at the end of each travel day. In a prius, a tank will always last a full day, so no need to think about it until the day's end.
2. It is REALLY hot standing on the side of the road in Texas for an hour. REALLY HOT.
3. I confirmed that I really actually like Texas. It's beautiful. (Look at the backdrop to Pre in the picture.)
4. Keep your phone ringer on when stranded...4 missed calls from the tow guy while I sweated out the scenery made the wait a lot longer.

Another lesson I have learned while travelling: When you don't know where to go, go to where the most cars are. This is a really good rule of thumb, and should be employed liberally.

Mom tells me that when she is selecting birthday cards at CVS, she looks for the smallest stacks of remaining cards. She figures if other people have already taken most of them, it's likely that it is a card worth exploring. My rule is of a similar vain. If you are in an area that you know very little about, and need to find a hotel, whichever inn in town has the most cars is the place to go. It is guaranteed that the people who are staying there know much more about where to stay in town, and you should defer to their superior knowledge. They can't just have all picked the same place by coincidence. They know something, and you know nothing. This also applies to many other Road Trip activities. For example, when on a rural sceninc route, and you see a handful of cars parked somewhere, pull right over and join them, you won't be disappointed...they know something. (This topic could be a whole chapter in the book version of the blog)

Tonight, I ate at a place that brags to be the Best Pit BBQ in Texas. They're liars! I knew I had made a mistake when they delivered my order 5 minutes after I placed it. You can't cook anything good in 5 minutes. Stringy baby back ribs, cold onion rings, and mushy corn on the cob. I should have known better...not enough cars.

I guess not every day can be perfect.

BTW, I will probably not be blogging tomorrow night, so no nasty emails TreasonPal!

Thursday, April 26, 2007

El Camino Del Rio De La Big Bend - Day 19

Did you know vultures exist here around the Big Bend area? At least I think they're vultures. Same shape, but not as big as I would have thought. The Bugs Bunny cartoons exaggerated the look, I think.

Up before sunrise, I headed away from Alpine, TX to drive the Big Bend. The Big Bend is a portion of the Rio Grande that, well, has a big bend in it. The river has carved out the desert beautifully.

On the ride south from Alpine on Route 118, I was amazed by the stunning scenery as the sun rose. I was stopping every chance I got, just for a look see. We're not in Kansas, and we're certainly not in New Jersey any more. I stopped at Lajitas, because there was a big painted sign on a building saying "Golf Here". So I golfed there.

I quit after 14, but the course was overwhelming with beautiful scenery...worth the 30 bucks. (I couldn't add the score to my handicap because they didn't have a rating or slope.) I had lost 3 balls on the front nine, but hit many more OB. If you don't hit the fairway, your OB. But usually the balls are easy to find. Sometime you hunt a while. At the ninth hole, I talked to the "groundskeeper". His information about the rattlesnakes spooked me. No more looking for balls off course. I was losing at least one a hole, so I just played a few shots on the way to the "clubhouse".

One funny golf episode: It was often hard to tell where to aim. On the pictured hole, I lined up, and blasted a great drive, straight off the tees; perfect. I saw it poof in the distance. I drove off the tee box, and started following the "cart path". Exact opposite direction of my perfect drive. I drove back to the tee box, saw the white post to hit over (picture), and hit an awful lost ball, at last (and at least) in the right direction. I took a mulligan.

After a "Handy-wipe" down, I headed out on Route 170 for Presidio (not the base in SF).

I'm reticent to use superlatives. Especially so early on the trip. Hey, it hasn't even been three weeks yet. So yesterday, when I said it was the "best day yet", it was, because it was. I won't be saying today was the best. But I am saying the the drive on Route 170 was the best drive yet. Because it was. (It beats out the prior best drive of the Kentucky trip to Churchill Downs.)

Besides brief chances to see the Rio Grande, the roller coaster road slinked along the omnipresent beauty of the canyon walls. It has plenty of places to pull over, and you should do them all. Even the not-so-great ones are really great. Just pull over any real chance you get, there's always something. The ride and the pictures are better than I can ever describe, so I won't; but to add, this is a must drive...I hope to do it again.

After that, I shot through Marfa and up to here in Van Horn, TX. Beautiful in the same way as the drive from Alpine to the Ghost Town was. So take this U turn from either side, Marfa or Alpine.

Along the way, I had 3 required stops by Border Patrol. Just looking for illegals. I spoke with one long enough to hold up about a dozen cars behind me and asked if he loved his job. He said, "I've worked here too long to quit because of the benefits, but I hate my boss." Dubbya.

They all seemed to laugh at me when I honestly answer the questions, "Where have you been?" and "Where are you going?"

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

What a Great Day It's Been - Day 18

Again, what a great day.

I started off the day with a round of golf. The only course in Del Rio was a 9 hole course, so for $32 bucks I took a cart and played it twice. (It was a par 36, so I will be adding it to myscorecard.com, I shot a 102.) The course was pretty good, a little dry on a few greens, but otherwise nice and definitely challenging for someone playing it the first time…lots of blind shots where you can end up in the natural spring river or lost in the trees. I improved five strokes on the second nine based primarily on course knowledge. I was practically the only person on the course, and I played 18 in just over 2 hours. And that was with it being cart paths only. At the right course, I am sure I can finish in under two.

After that, I got the tank filled, the car washed for a buck, and headed out on route 90 West for the next 5 hours. I sort of regret getting the car washed because the bugs started committing suicide in kamikaze attacks. Splat! I’d have to say that was the worst part of the day, because otherwise, it was really perfect.

The destination was Marathon, TX and it was about a 3 hour drive. Between Del Rio and Marathon there were only about 5 cities on the map and most of them didn’t need to make the map. They were mainly places to slow you down to 25MPH for about a mile with just a couple of places to stop at, but not really any worth stopping for.

After a long spell of driving through the beautiful rolling hills of Texas, I had to stop at an immigration post. The guard asked if I was smuggling anyone. I told him that was an offensive question, and asked him where he was from. After the strip search, I was allowed to proceed. I guess this is a spot where Illegals sneak into the country, and perhaps hitchhike. I didn’t see any. And I'm not sure whether I’d pick any of them up if I did...we'll see.

The beautiful drive continued for hours. In Texas they do rest stops and picnic areas right. Before this, I have often stopped at the rest stops, which consist mainly of trash cans, restrooms and perhaps Fritos and Diet Coke machines. But along this drive, they pick their spots based on the view. They find a naturally beautiful area and plop down some picnic tables. The Pecos River Tall Bridge was the best of the best. The whole ride was beautiful if you took the time to look around.

(I took a bunch of pictures today and will add them to the photos area when I get caught up. If you haven’t seen it yet, I added a photos section at the bottom of the archives. I will keep trying to get it updated with everything.)

Most of the way to Marathon, I had the road to myself. Pretty early on, I sped past two trucks travelling together. After another half hour, I stopped at a rest area. Resuming the trip, I came upon them again and this time passed them one at a time. After repeating the process at the next rest stop an hour later, I figured out there is no rush in passing. Pretty much, I was going around 75, and they were going about 73. Instead of accelerating, I just drifted into the left lane, and stayed there for about 5 miles as I casually passed them both before sliding back into the single right lane. I was ready to get back in the right at any time, but there was never a car coming the other way, and you can see a car coming for many miles.

But pretty close to Marathon, just after slowing down at a non-town, I pulled up at the end of a line of about 20 cars that were stopped on the road. Just a moment before the line was allowed to proceed, the trooper walking the line told me that there were time-trials for a road race being performed. Upon release I was riding in “heavy” traffic for about 10 miles. I pulled over to a rest area to let the sparse crowd move on and to let the beautiful open road return.

The rest stop happened to also be the end point of the time-trials. There were a few cops there to control the traffic flow through the course, like at the other end where I had been stopped. I chatted Bill up for a bit, and he informed me they only did this one day a year, today. The cars in the “unlimited” category traveled at more than 200 MPH. I also asked him what his normal day was like and he said sometimes he sat in town and ticketed people who don’t slow down for the “town”, and other times he drove the Route 90 and ticketed people driving the highway.

I said, “Beautiful scenery around here.”

Bill said, “Sure, if you like the desert”. We talked a bit about my trip, and I mentioned I quit my job because I hated it. I asked him what he though about his job. Bill said, “What’s not to love.” I agree! Perhaps I’ll be a trooper out here for my next career.

Unfortunately, I think I like Texas.

There was no cell coverage for most of the route, so breaking down would have been bad, so it was nice to be approaching Marathon. Then I drove right past it. How did this place make the map? I guess if you have a gas station and a couple motels, you get a dot on the map. I drove back to make sure I didn’t miss anything…I didn’t. I was tempted, but with no cell phone coverage, I decided to pass by. The Verizon guy from the commercial asking “Can you hear me now?” wouldn’t be getting a response when in Marathon.

Alpine was just a half hour further, and provided the coverage I needed and was clearly the better destination. I had a great Mexican meal at La Casita. I should have ordered a burrito or the soft shell tacos, as that was what most of the Texans seemed to be eating. I had the most expensive plate on the menu at $8.75, the Spanish Steak. It was ok, but wrapping it in the fantastic fresh tortillas turned it into the aforementioned burrito.

The pamphlets from the hotel offer some great sounding side journeys (which I am hoping to convince the Treason’s to do with me on a day trip). But for tomorrow I will probably be doing a long scenic drive south and not making much progress toward Phoenix. So much to see, I may arrive a little later than thought. And perhaps I can steal two hours and get in another round of golf.

Best day yet. "Notice" the moon in the center of the sky in the picture at right.

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

The Road to Del Rio - Day 17

The weather has turned ugly. I had warm sunny days from Memphis to Oxford. It’s been overcast or drizzling the last two days (so no golf). The weatherman just said: “The weather is dangerous tonight. We don’t really ever make a forecast like that. The weather is dangerous.” This is because tornadoes are moving through the whole area from San Antonio to here in Del Rio. I have golf ball sized hail and tornadoes in my forecast for tonight. Unequivocally, that is a first for me.

From Johnson City, it was a short drive to Blanco and the Devil’s Backbone scenic drive (p. 181). Perhaps it was the weather, but it was a boring drive compared to the others from the book. I had better going off road randomly and taking non-book scenic drives I happened upon. This is really the first time one of the books has let me down.

I went to the Alamo in San Antonio. Not bad…actually better than I thought it would be. But I saw the movies and they were better (both the John Wayne version and even the new one).

From there, I headed down Route 90 all the way to Del Rio, TX. I skipped lunch in anticipation of either my first Texas Steak or a real Mexican Restaurant. In Del Rio, after a beautiful drive, the concierge pointed me to Cripple Creek steaks, and I had a sumptuous rib eye special with all the fat the Murphy’s (apparently) love. I wonder what I weigh?

Del Rio is right on the border of Mexico. Some other road-trippers told me that I don’t really need to go to Mexico yet, and should wait until outside Yuma, AZ. I’ll take that advice for now. There aren’t many road trippers like me that I have found yet, but they seem easy to spot. But I am waiting to meet one that doesn’t have gray hair.

Monday, April 23, 2007

WJC to LBJ - Day 16

I woke up in Hope, AR, birthplace of William Jefferson Clinton. Not much happened today. I drove from Hope to Dallas. At a rest stop, an El Paso native returning from a fly fishing weekend told me I was half way to the Atlantic. Or Pacific, I suppose.

From the food book, I had planned to go to Gennie's Bishop Grill. I arrived only to find it had been replaced by a Husky's Hamburgers, a Johnny Rocket's wannabe. So I went to plan B and sped on to Fort Worth. I wouldn't call Fort Worth a twin city, more like the little brother. Dallas is to Fort Worth as New York is to Philadelphia.

I went to Angello's and had a (half) Beef Plate. The sides were fine, but the beef brisket was the best I ever had. I've been writing about food a lot, but I haven't used a term as strong as that yet. It was fork tender brisket, held together by not so thin strands of fat. Succulent fat, that I'm sure Buz would love as much as I did.

After that, I just took the slower back roads down towards San Antonio. I am bunking tonight in Johnson City, TX, birthplace of Lyndon Baines Johnson.



Sunday, April 22, 2007

BigEarl and Bill - Day 15

BigEarl took me on a couple of tours of the Ole Miss campus as well as the town of Oxford, MS. Faulkner lived there; Grisham lived there; a literary town. The town was named Oxford after the town in England with the hope of developing it as a center for higher education.


On last evening's tour, we ate at City Grocery in Courthouse Square. While BigEarl had a big steak, I had the shrimp and grits specialty of the house. The shrimp were just fine, but the orange, sauteed mushroom infused tureen of grits was the star. I almost even finished it all. We also stopped in on the local bookstore where we were "treated" to author Angela McGowan discussing her new book "Bamboozled". We liberals stayed just long enough to be disgusted - about 5 minutes. Stupid republican dittohead.


The morning tour took us back to the Square. After picking up a bagel and Sunday NY Times, we sat on a bench to pass time. Oxford is filled with the most beautiful young women, and on this morning, they were all in their Sunday best for services. BigEarl's loquaciousness coupled with his hometown renown put "interacting with the locals" at full tilt. During one conversation, I almost added another rider to the Road Trip. We followed breakfast with a stop at Ronzo's place, a true throwback to the hippie generation. BigEarl and I parted ways each with a chicken-on-a-stick from the corner service station.

Thank you BigEarl! Thank you for the tours, the hospitality, the local knowledge, and for making me feel at home. And best wishes to your mother in-law...may she recover quickly.

With no real timetable or required destination until I reach Phoenix, I took to the road for the first time unencumbered. I threw a dart, and ended up heading for Little Rock, AR. Nothing of particular interest along the way, but I did withstand 5 more minutes of McGowan pumping her drivel on the Memphis right-wing talk radio. In Little Rock, I went straight to the William Clinton Presidential Library. It was 2 hours til closing, so after watching their movie, I moved through the rest pretty quickly. Very interesting stuff, but I don't think I could have spent too much more time there than that.

I tried to find the engraved donation brick that Mom bought for Dad and is placed in Celebration Circle leading to the Library. The kind, matronly Clintonites at the Information booth proudly informed me that it is brick number 4248 and is found near the Rock Island Railroad Bridge. After craining my neck for 20 minutes, it was still lost; and there were too many other bricks; and the Library was closed. And I was gone.

Week 2 Ends

End of Week 2. (11:30AM CDT - 4/22/07)

Saturday, April 21, 2007

New Orleans to the Palan's - Day 14

I’m sitting at the dominoes table on the shaded back porch of the Palan homestead in Oxford, MS. The sounds of the wildlife mix with the gentle pings of the wind chime, though there is hardly enough of a breeze to sustain a tune. The porch overlooks the Palan pond and you can see the tops of the trees all the way to the horizon.

I airmailed CuzJoe home from the New Orleans at 5AM, and programmed Oxford into the Magellan. Straight back up Rte. 55. At Grenada (Kelli pronounces it Gra-nay-da), I followed signs for golf. Unfortunately, the course was packed, it being Saturday. Did you all know it was Saturday? So I took to the driving range, and based on my output, I was glad I didn’t bring that onto a course. Golf will be soon – I’m thinking Monday.

After that, I was just about 60 miles from Oxford. While heading out of Grenada, I caught signs for a scenic drive, and followed them to the Grenada Lake and Dam. Well worth the short drive. It was so pleasant that I modified the GPS route to avoid major highways. It led me off 55 to another scenic drive to the Enid Lake and Dam that were not nearly as pretty as Grenada’s, but the drive was nice. Then it was just a few more rural miles to Rte.6 and the Palan estate, where I am sipping a tall glass of ice water, and relaxing.

From here, I will be solo to TreasonPals outside Phoenix. It was great to have CuzJoe along to kick off this trek...and it will be great to set off on my own. These first two weeks, while certainly part of the Road Trip, were also as much about a vacation with CuzJoe. It is sinking in that the vacation is over, and I am now moving into the meat and potatoes of the journey, and I'm a meat and potatoes guy.

Friday, April 20, 2007

The Bayou - Day 13

After a “relatively” quiet night in New Orleans, our time at the Crescent and Queens Hotel was up. It was a great place at a great price. The price was tripling for the weekend…apparently the Pirate convention was jacking up prices.

We took to the road for another of the scenic drives. This one was the Old Spanish Trail from Houma to Breaux Bridge, LA. The route took us along the bayou as we passed stately sugar cane plantation homes. Sort of like the ones from Fletch 2, if anyone but me saw the movie. We hit a few of the designated homes, and they were pretty, but not as breathtaking as expected.
But the bayou was great.

We stopped for lunch at a small town called Franklin. They were coincidentally having a Bear festival, but it didn’t start til 5PM, and they didn’t think any bears were coming anyway. I relaxed by the bayou and waved at the passing boaters. New Orleans was great, but it certainly was a pleasure to leave it behind and get out on the road a bit.

I’ll be dropping CuzJoe off at the airport early tomorrow, and will probably drive as the sun rises toward Oxford, MS.


Thursday, April 19, 2007

Driving Around - Day 12

A nice quiet day so far. We slept in a bit this morning for really the first time on the trip, but still got to Central Grocery by 11AM for lunch. Today's prize - The Muffuletta. It's a huge, $12 sandwich. A large flat round roll (loaf) is stuffed with thick, freshly sliced meats and cheeses and topped with some pickled veggies, mashed up olives, garlic and anchovies...it beats oil and vinegar by a mile.

After that, we walked it off for a while before taking out the car for a tour. We looked for the 9th ward, but I'm not sure we really found it. There were a lot of homes with the Katrina circles, exes, and numbers, but it really didn't seem devastated the way people have been describing to us.

We then found the Tulane Medical Center, but had been looking for the main Tulane campus. We went to the wrong part of town, and gave up on trying to find it.

During a Biloxi bachelor weekend years ago, we had taken a limo ride to New Orleans for the day. As we approached N.O. we went across a cool, long, low-lying bridge. We programmed Biloxi in to the GPS to just enjoy the ride. The bridge was about 20 miles from New Orleans, and along the way we saw a lot of the horrible devastation. So many abandoned homes and entire developments and towns were deserted. It was somewhat eerie seeing an entire 6 Flags amusement park that was a ghost town.

Nawlins - Day 11

I drank too much last night. CuzJoe roused me at 10:30AM, and he had already gone walkabout. We went walkabout last night, but if you can’t remember it, it didn’t happen. By the time I was anesthetized this morning with 3 aspirins and 14 glasses of water, it was time for lunch.

(Sorry if a lot of what I write about is food. But like most of you, I love food. Experiencing food is part of living. Indulging is part of living well. I’m living well.)

Lunch was at Mothers, just a couple blocks from our hotel, and again, from the Road Food book (p. 272). After standing in a line that ran the full length of the place, we ordered what the book suggested: roast beef and ham Po-Boys. Superb. The book works. Should anyone ever repeat or mimic a trip like this, you must travel with this book. On yesterday’s post, 6pack and buz posted comments about places to visit. Because of the book, we had already scouted both out and will be at them tomorrow or Friday.

Since today was a no-drinking day for me, I went back to the hotel, listened to the news about the VA college shooting, and took a much needed nap. After waking, a hurricane couldn't hurt at Pat O’s. And we had to have a bottle of wine at dinner. We chatted up the conventioneers at the table next to us during dinner, had a few more drinks, and BLAM, it’s last night all over again.

More food, more wine; more everything is fine.

Catching some local music, but Preservation Hall is not doing its thing until tomorrow. I’m looking to take in the ninth ward, and Tulane tomorrow, and may even tour the Bayou. Taking my house (the Prius) out of lockup opens many more possibilities.

BTW, we are staying at the Queens and Crescent Hotel for $55 a night. This place should be costing $200, we have it at a steal. Super quality, and just a few blocks from Bourbon Street. Thank you hotels.com.

B&M, we also are trying to meet up with Kim and nothing has worked out so far…perhaps tomorrow.

Photos from Mother's, Old Muddy, and a drunken bathroom stall.

BTW, the photos should be able to be clicked on to get a bigger picture of them. Some of the details are nice, though I am not really much of a photographer. Let me know if you can't enlarge them. Eventually, I will try to send out a link to all my photos...I only post a couple a day, but I have been taking about a dozen or so each day.

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

The Big Easy - Day 10

A bit of driving landed us at the basin of the Mississippi River. New Orleans. Nawlins. The Big Easy.



When my sister was here at Tulane, I visited with Tom Quigley. We came as a crew, and nothing could deter us from Bourbon Street. And nothing deterred us today.



We had gumbo at the Pearl Oyster House, and jambalaya at the renowned Bon Ton Cafe. Both were perfect meals. We had beers on Bourbon Street, Hurricanes at Pat O'Briens, and topless women at the gentlemans clubs. (The Hurricanes were the best of the lot.)



And from there it became the stumblefest that led to this post. Hey, if it happens in New Orleans, it stays in New Orleans...or at least here, it passes into forgotten memory by morning.




Monday, April 16, 2007

Memphis, Interstate and Elvis - Day 9


From the Road Food book (Stern's, p. 178), we chose the Cupboard Restaurant for lunch. The book states: "Not to slight the entree's, but an all-vegetable plate is a perfectly logical and satisfying lunch". Sentences like that don't compute. Whats the deal...do they mean no meat?

Our entrees came out. Our combined 6 vegetable sides we picked included fried green tomatoes so heavily breaded that I ate a whole slice. The cucumber salad looked just like any homemade cucumber salad, but the Italian dressing was a special tangy blend. There was super fresh Italian spinach, with a buttery parmesan flavor. The tater tots were a mistake and shouldn't have been ordered. We had one huge sweet potato that was so soft you scooped it out with a spoon like soft serve ice cream. The 72best of the best was the fresh corn pudding that was a large dollop from a casserole and with a texture like dry thanksgiving stuffing and a barely noticeable sweetness to it.

We each had some forms of chicken, too.

After a couple of beers on Beale street while basking in the warm 72 degrees, I took a side trip to Graceland. I paid $6 for parking, but wasn’t willing to invest the time or money to actually enter the property. I did buy a tee shirt, and walked around the clunky pre-entry area. Not really anything of note.

I picked up two chopped pork sandwiches and 6 oz. of baked beans from the famous Interstate BBQ, and headed back to Beale street. We sat in the park, listened to some fine recycled blues, and finished off our stay in Memphis the right way – with one final beer.

It’s a straight line on Route 55 through Mississippi. (We passed the Ole Miss Oxford exit, I’ll be back for BigEarl’s crawfish etufee.) By this time tomorrow, I should have finished at least one Bourbon Street Hurricane.

Sunday, April 15, 2007

Lost and Memphis - Day 8

After a layover in Nowhere, IL, we saw the thick red line on the map that pointed straight to Memphis, and decided to point the Prius south. There was a scenic drive along the Ohio river that we decided to take a stab at. We failed.

So far, the Magellan GPS has been invaluable during the trip. So frequently she (I say she because of the demure voice) has kept us from turning onto the wrong highway countless times. But today, during the scenic drive, we were instructed to turn onto Bushwack Drive. After we discussed in detail what is the definition of "gravel road", and after we crossed the stream, we ended at a residence with 4 mangy dogs and a peacock? Before we heard the dueling banjo's we reversed the 5 mile detour.

Another wrong turn, and that's enough, "skip it, we're going to Memphis." Straight shot, four hours later, and I am sitting at Silky O'Sullivans listening to basking in the warmth, listening to Live Blues, drinking a Miller Lite, and pealing the meat off tender dry rub ribs. Bliss. And after checking in a few blocks away, we followed up with a feast at the Blues City Cafe.

I stopped by the Mississippi River, Old Muddy, to snap a quick shot at sundown. A couple of locals snapped the photo of me, and bummed a few dollars. Lots of outstretched hands here, and it's not easy to pass them by. Beale street is hopping, but first glance doesn't show the city is following step.

As for tomorrow, no plans. Nice.

Week 1 Ends

End of Week 1. (6:30AM - 4/15/07)